Welcome to Generation and Analysis of Waves in Physical Models


Description: The course deals with advanced methods and techniques in generation and analysis of waves in physical models. The course will cover analysis of long and short-crested waves, generation of linear and non-linear regular waves, generation of oblique waves and associated laboratory difficulties, generation of long-crested and short crested irregular waves, wave reflections and associated laboratory difficulties, active absorption in flumes and basins, wave groups, bounded long waves and wave generator choice and design.

The course will be lectures followed by laboratory exercises to get hands on experience with the different methods.

Preliminary schedule:

Day 1          

  • Introduction + Short presentation of participants
  • Biésel transfer functions including stroke and breaking limitations
  • Analysis of long-crested waves in time domain
  • Analysis of long-crested waves in frequency domain
  • Generator design criteria and performance curves
  • Exercise: Performance curve for regular waves


Day 2

  • Generation of long-crested irregular waves
  • Reflection of waves and laboratory difficulties
  • Reflection analysis in the time domain
  • Active absorption in wave flumes
  • Exercise: Analysis of regular and irregular waves with and without absorption


Day 3

  • Generation of oblique waves and laboratory difficulties
  • Generation of short crested waves
  • Methods for estimation of directional wave spectra
  • Basin layout and choice of wave maker type
  • Exercise: Demonstration and analysis of short-crested waves


Day 4  

  • Design of wave generators I
  • Design of wave generators II
  • Active absorption in wave basins
  • Active absorption in wave basins
  • Exercise: Demonstration of 3-D active absorption            


Day 5  

  • Bounded long waves, wave groups, freak waves
  • Second order wave generation
  • Generation of solitary waves and non-linear regular waves
  • Exercise: Generation and analysis of non-linear regular waves and bicromatic waves
  • Evaluation of course

Prerequisites: Basic fluid and wave mechanics

Learning objectives: The objective of the course is to train students in advanced methods and techniques in generation and analysis of waves in physical models in order to know their advantages and limitations.

Teaching methods: Lectures and laboratory exercises

Criteria for assessment: Report on laboratory exercises to be delivered by the students and evaluated by the lecturers

Key literature:

[1]: Frigaard, P., Lykke Andersen, T., Jakobsen, M. M. (2015). Analysis of Waves. Technical Documentation for WaveLab 3. Aalborg University, Denmark.

[2]: Lykke Andersen, T., Frigaard, P. (2015). Wave Generation in Physical Models. Technical Documentation for AwaSys 6. Aalborg University, Denmark.

[3]: Brorsen, M. (2007). Non-linear Waves, Aalborg University, Denmark.

Organizer: Associate Professor Thomas Lykke Andersen, tla@civil.aau.dk

Lecturers: Associate Professor Thomas Lykke Andersen, Head of Department Peter Frigaard (Aalborg University), Guillermo Calvino, Gustavo Ferichola (VTI, Spain)


Time: 6 - 10 November 2017

Place: Aalborg University

Zip code:


Number of seats: 14

Deadline: 10 October 2017


Important information concerning PhD courses We have over some time experienced problems with no-show for both project and general courses. It has now reached a point where we are forced to take action. Therefore, the Doctoral School has decided to introduce a no-show fee of DKK 5,000 for each course where the student does not show up. Cancellations are accepted no later than 2 weeks before start of the course. Registered illness is of course an acceptable reason for not showing up on those days. Furthermore, all courses open for registration approximately three months before start. This can hopefully also provide new students a chance to register for courses during the year. We look forward to your registrations.